Merchant City |
Always I am going to Scotland i feel I trespass a magic
frontier and I get in a mystic land, with a fairy-tale landscape and cities
that show us the opulence and decadence that the Scottish had suffered.
But after years of poverty, Scotland has become a risen
economy thanks to the petroleum, the tourism and the attractive of their
culture.
Edinburgh is the aristocratic capital of the country but
Glasgow for centuries has been the “ugly one” but luckily like in Bilbao, the
city had found its way to be an architectural and cultural stand out and the
place to go shopping in Scotland and north England.
The best way to arrive to the city must be by train but
unfortunately United Kingdom has
forgotten its old railways glories and to travel 400 miles by train takes you
about 4:30 hours, at least they still doing good weddings.
So we arrive at the windy airport of Glasgow in uncommon
hot sunny day. After our check-in the first walk is the Merchant City, the old
rich merchant district that flourish with the lords that make fortune with
cotton, tobacco and textile industries. After 1750 until 19th
centuries the merchant city get rich and develop beautiful buildings like the
Trades House, the Hutcheson’s Hall, Tobacco Lord´s House and
another grand Victorian buildings and neo classical like the actual Modern Art
Gallery. At the moment the historical
buildings with their clean facades, just
remind me of Edinburgh, but you look more closer in the narrow alley you
discover the black walls, the street musician, that is just not the typical
pipe, they play songs of Texas and even the newest of Belle & Sebastian.
Before to leave the area is mandatory
go to George Square and contemplate the Victorian buildings around and the
statues of Walter Scott, Queen Victoria and the lions.
After a short walk you will be in the
Scottish golden Z, a bunch of walking street that form a Z, and where are the
most popular shopping centres, and high street shops. Even if you are not fancy to shop some of
them worth a visit like the Buchanan Galleries, Princes Square and glass
structure of the St Enoch Centre. Also the Argyll Arcade built 1827 are nice to
visit with their jewellery shops but if you like something more alternative you
must go to the Barras Market, you will be surprised!
Armadillo by Foster |
But now is time to move, and ahead to the futurist design
over the side of the Clyde River that offer the Science Centre and the
Conference Centre, called by the locals the armadillo, even the Norman Foster
architect try to emulate a sea shell and to my taste one of his worst attempt
when you are getting closer to the building. As well you can contemplate a
giant ship crane that reminds us of the
historical past of the docks and the Clyde river; that I am pretty sure than for
centuries has never been look so clean. And now the area has a new arrival the
new spectacular transport museum (open 21st june).
Inside Kelvingrove museum |
After this you are ready to back to the city and visit
the Great Western Road, a posh area close to the Glasgow University, and
Kelvingrove museum. The Kelvingrove is a
Victorian red palace where you can find a taxidermist elephant, French
impressionist and Flemish painting, some art for the Scottish boy, Mackintosh and even a Spitfire from the second world
war. Even the display is quite chaotic in some stages, they have a lot of
information to learn about what are you watching, really much better than the
disappointed visit of the Modern Art Museum, a real waste of time if wasn’t for
the nice interior of the buildings.
Anyway Glasgow have around 20 museum and galleries, most
of them are free, the Burrell Collection is the art collection of one of the
richest shipping merchant of the city and include more than 8000 pieces,
including Rodin, Cézanne, Greek and Egypt object. No far you can find the
Pollock house for admire Spanish painting of Goya, Murillo and El Greco.
Kibble Palace |
Much of the expert believe that the word Glasgow mean
“dear green place”, we can be sure but is true that Glasgow is one of the
European cities with most green space for habitants, and prove of that are thebotanic gardens with impressive Kibble Glasshouse, iron and glass in their more
beautiful expression manage to keep a tropical forest inside.
Before to leave you need to explore the Charles RennieMacKintosh universe, he was an architect, designer, and artist that change the
stone for the iron and glass transforming everything in more functional and
simple without left the beauty and harmony with the nature. The best examples
of his art are in the Hill House (Helensburgh), Willow Tea Rooms or Glasgow
School of Art.
Loch Katrine |
Another good thing about the city is that Glasgow is the
perfect springboard to the Scottish countryside and history, Loch Lomond biggest
of all of them is a short drive, you will astonish with the lake view and
charming bed & breakfast around them.
Also you are not far from the Lowlands, maybe with less fame that the
Highland but they are rich in history with famous battles and heroes like
William Wallace. The natural park of the Trossachs known as the Scotland in miniature because of
its stunning scenery, is home of another Scottish character the anti-heroe Rob
Roy MacGregor a kind of Robin Hood but with the difference he kept the cattle
stole from the rich for himself. Inside the park is the Loch Katrine, were you
can make a cruise in a steamship boat meanwhile you understand surrounding for
the beauty of the lake why sir Walter Scott´s wrote the epic poem “The Lady ofthe Lake”.
Maybe for the outsider to United Kingdom driving in the
narrow path of the Scottish countryside is not the best option. We recommend
Timberbush Tours for enjoy Scotland at its best
Bedroom - Gran Central Hotel |
Hotel facilities are limited at the moment but will include a gym and high level terrace once the work on the upper floors is complete. There is a lovely champagne bar which overlooks the station concourse as well as many rooms for corporate conferences and functions.
The ballroom is a tour de force and very elegant and now used for social occasions and conferences/presentations.
The Grand Staircase is equally stunning with a huge chandelier which cascades down from the fifth floor.
We had a room on the fourth floor, of a largish size and a good sized bathroom. The room was well soundproofed from the station below.
However the amenities were somewhat below for a 4 star hotel. No mini bar, no heating or towel rails in the bathroom and a poor tv service which was difficult to control with the remote.
Breakfast was of the buffet style in an elegant room with Venetian style chandeliers but coffee/ tea service was intermittent at best.
The hotel is well located for the various attractions of Glasgow and I am sure that once the refurbishment is completed and small issues ironed out, The Grand Central Hotel Glasgow will be a superb place to stay in the centre of Glasgow.
Where we eat .
The Ubiquitous Chip
Set in vibrant Ashton Lane this is one of Glasgow’s best restaurants. The building, a converted stable block is charming and well decorated with a fish pond just inside the entrance.
Opposite is a well-stocked bar with vintage wine bottles stacked horizontally below.
To eat my we had the traditional Scottish haggis as a starter which was beautifully cooked and very tasty and a salmon salad which was well presented and very satisfying.
To follow we had Venison medium rare with roast potatoes and a selection of vegetables.
Again beautifully cooked and tender meat and a Scottish sirloin steak served medium rare. This was possibly the best steak I have ever had..full of flavour and very tender almost melting in the mouth.
We had a bottle of a rather good California Red, Vintage 2005 to go with the food.
We shared a dessert of Scottish Oat and Vanilla Ice Cream which finished off a truly spectacular meal.
Our waiter David was welcoming on arrival and gave us a wonderful table on the ground floor.
Highly recommended for traditional Scottish dining! Price a hefty £125 for two but well worth it.
Roganos
An Art Deco institution since 1935 in Exchange Place this restaurant specialises in fish dishes and does not disappoint.
We had the Fruits de Mer platter which was an orgy of mussels, oysters, shrimp and crab and a salmon roulade to start followed by Lemon Sole with new potatoes and spinach.
We had a bottle of Alsace wine with the meal which went down very easily!
Attentive service in elegant surroundings this is must for lovers of all things fishy.
Price £107.00 for two
The Grill on the corner
Situated near our hotel the Grand Central this is a trendy eclectic cavernous place popular with young and old alike. The food is not of the same standard as the above but is well cooked and presented. Service is friendly and efficient. This time our dishes were a ginormous rack of ribs which hid a mountain of chips plus a bottle of Brahma beer to wash it down and a Dublin bay scampi and chips with a large glass of Sauvignon Blanc.
We left both full and satisfied from the large meals we had eaten. Price around £56 for two
And finally...
Ketchup
A return visit to Ashton Lane for the best burgers and fries in Glasgow.
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