Dorsoduro, quietness in Carnival.
|Dorsoduro. Views from Ca Razzonico|
In one of the vaporettos (water buses) that sails the Grand Canal I discovered all the luxury of one of the most successful empires and in St. Mark Square I was even more impressed with symmetry of the building, and the glorification of the architecture. But really it was the Rialto bridge, the definitive masterpiece put me in contact with the rialto district and its fresh market, definitely this was the glance for coming back to Venice, to discover the areas, the venetian and overall the food that are hidden in the backstreets of the palaces.
|Langoustines in the Rialto Market|
But beside the Dorsoduro attraction, the best are the streets where you can still find the locals mixed with a more select tourism. Another difference are the shops, here they are not just plastic Chinese mask and cholesterol pizza restaurants, here still handmade bakery, musical instrument shops, little groceries and plenty places for enjoy a drink like with some snacks like in Campo St. Marguerite at a very good price.
|Centurion Palace Hotel|
|Avogaria Suite, views from your own backgarden.|
Venice, the Gastronomic Experiences.
Now you know what to see and where to stay, but after all this is kitchen blog and you need to know where to eat in a place where is full of tourism and where the quality is no so easy to find.
First the best classic, Harry´s Bar.
On March 5 2011 we went to Harrys Bar for lunch. Harrys is an institution in Venice and we booked a table in the first floor dining room with views out on to the Grand Canal. Harrys is not a cheap option but the quality of the food, wine and service explains its premier reputation.
As a starter we both had the classic carpaccio with a side order of baby artichokes recommended by Carmela Cipriani the vivacious host of the restaurant and descendant of the owner.These dishes were both superb in their execution and taste.this was followed by two pasta dishes,Ravioli with spinach and ricotta cheese and a pasta bake with cheese and ham. I have never tasted better pasta than that at Harrys and I have been to many Italian restaurants around the world.These dishes were accompanied by the freshest green salad grown locally which gave the salad its unique salty flavour.
For desert we had a lemon meringue pie and another creamy meringue style dessert. And here lies my only criticism of Harrys...the desserts come in at a whopping 25 euros each which I think is somewhat excessive!
With a delicious Bellini to start and a carafe of red with the meal the bill came to 250 euros...but compared to restaurants of a similar standing in London and Paris this was a memorable eating experience.
The best of Dorsoduro, Avogaria Locanda & Restaurant Venice
This small restaurant in the Dorsoduro locality is a real find. Not only is it a first class restaurant but it has 3 lovely bedrooms on the ground floor, two with private courtyard gardens. We stayed here March 4-March 7 2011.
On the first night we had dinner in the restaurant which is a small cosy area with funky artwork on the walls.
To start we had a Tempura of vegetables which were deliciously crunchy and in the lightest batter I have ever tasted. Our other starter was a seafood risotto . The rice was perfectly cooked with generous scatterings of venetian seafood.
We had a superb bottle of red wine to accompany our meal which was recommended as the perfect compliment to fish and meat.(Campogadis by Ruffo Vini)
As a main course I had raw beef with herbs and my partner had a selection of fried fish with vegetables.
Both were superb and the presentation first class.
We had no room for dessert on this occasion and the meal was truly memorable.
Francesco Pugliese is to be congratulated on creating such as superb venue for eating drinking and sleeping, and his staff for providing such a warm welcome and attentive service !
With a view. Linea d'Ombra.
|Linea d'Ombra views|
Osteria Ai Storti,
|Picture by PatrickOhnewein's|
Has become a classic in my trips to Venice, very close to the Rialto market this very little (I mean it) osteria wine bar serve the most fresh fry vegetables like the famous venetian courgettes, cod, and octopus, but you can ask as well for gnochetti or spaghetti vongole and get very nice local wine at very good price is no surprise that the osteria is full of local workers around the rialto area. Ah and don’t get up without trying the huge portion of tiramisu!
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