Dorsoduro, quietness in Carnival.

Dorsoduro, quietness in Carnival.

Dorsoduro. Views from Ca Razzonico

My first time in Venice had been less than one year ago, like the thousands of tourists that arrive every day I was following the main attraction of the city in a sunny May, like millions I was just fascinated by the architecture, and sense of power and opulence of an ancient empire and if this wasn’t enough everything is surrounded by water, everything moves through the waters of the lagoon, so I was moving from one boat to another to discover the gems of the city.
In one of the vaporettos (water buses) that sails the Grand Canal I discovered all the luxury of one of the most successful empires and in St. Mark Square I was even more impressed with symmetry of the building, and the glorification of the architecture. But really it  was the Rialto bridge, the definitive masterpiece put me in contact with the rialto district and its fresh market, definitely this was the glance for coming back to Venice, to discover the areas, the venetian and overall the food that are hidden in the backstreets of the palaces.

Langoustines in the Rialto Market

So back this year just the last weekend of Carnival, busy times around St Mark Square, but just in the south of the city, in the Dorsoduro area most of the tourist don’t go more far that the church Santa Maria della Sallute and its impressive dome, but there  is plenty to explore, like the Peggy Guggenheim, la Galleria de la Accademia and its very rich collection of Veneto paintings, including artist like Bellini, Tintoretto Gianbattista ( my favourite) and of course Canaletto all in the same building which  you can feel  moving slightly at first floor level. Another great place is the palace Ca´Razzonico over the Grand Canal, inside its impressive rooms (look up to the cellings!) is the museum of the settecento, and most of the rooms have views over the Grand Canal or over the Dorsoduro, and as well a charming garden with salamander and turtles. A good bunch of church´s and bell towers where in every one you will find art (in the San Sebastiano painting of Paolo Veronese), classical music, exhibitions (San Barnaba), impossible architecture, beautiful bell towers, some in decadence like the roman church, but a lot of peacefulness for the soul (even if you are not catholic) and as well a place to rest the feet.

Bell Tower in Dorsoduro

San Sebastiano

But beside the Dorsoduro attraction, the best are the streets where you can still find the locals mixed with a more select tourism. Another difference are the shops, here they are not just plastic Chinese mask and cholesterol pizza restaurants, here still handmade bakery, musical instrument shops, little groceries and plenty places for enjoy a drink like with some snacks like in Campo St. Marguerite at a very good price.

Bakery in Calle Lunga de San Barnaba

"Demijhons" around San Sebastiano bridge

Also the area offer very good options to stay like the five stars Centurion Hotel once upon a time a palace has been recently build with modern interiors and pieces or modern art like the chandelier in the atrium or fantastic mirrors and vase with flowers in the hallways, fortunately the hotel take care of the more important, the bedrooms, giant master beds, in a room where you never going to work out over the high of the decorated celling, the best view where you can appreciate the golden sunrise over Venice, but now that I said golden I can forget to mention the bathroom beaten with  gold surfaces. The breakfasts include a good selection of Italian hams and breads and the staff make you feel very comfortable given that they are formal but without pompousness.

Centurion Palace Hotel

 Another great place for stay and spend a whole week is without doubt is the Avogaria Hotel, in the most quiet and Italian areas of the Dorsoduro, a very practical double head shower, nice size bed with a fur for warm your feet ,you can said that the bedroom is not the more bigger that you have seen and at the moment are only 3 rooms, but after a busy day around the city Avogaria offer you your own private courtyard with plants and trees, just to enjoy and relax having a drink or even a meal. The staff is another quality, a respectful treat but without formality will make you feel like you are visiting your best friends in Italy.

Avogaria Suite, views from your own backgarden.

Venice, the Gastronomic Experiences.

 Now you know what to see and where to stay, but after all this is kitchen blog and you need to know where to eat in a place where is full of tourism and where the quality is no so easy to find.

First the best classic, Harry´s Bar.

 On March 5 2011 we went to Harrys Bar for lunch. Harrys is an institution in Venice and we booked a table in the first floor dining room with views out on to the Grand Canal. Harrys is not a cheap option but the quality of the food, wine and service explains its premier reputation.
As a starter we both had the classic carpaccio with a side order of baby artichokes recommended by Carmela Cipriani the vivacious host of the restaurant and descendant of the owner.These dishes were both superb in their execution and taste.this was followed by two pasta dishes,Ravioli with spinach and ricotta cheese and a pasta bake with cheese and ham. I have never tasted better pasta than that at Harrys and I have been to many Italian restaurants around the world.These dishes were accompanied by the freshest green salad grown locally which gave the salad its unique salty flavour.
For desert we had a lemon meringue pie and another creamy meringue style dessert. And here lies my only criticism of Harrys...the desserts come in at a whopping 25 euros each which I think is somewhat excessive!
With a delicious Bellini to start and a carafe of red with the meal the bill came to 250 euros...but compared to restaurants of a similar standing in London and Paris this was a memorable eating experience.


The best of Dorsoduro,  Avogaria Locanda & Restaurant Venice
 This small restaurant in the Dorsoduro locality is a real find. Not only is it a first class restaurant but it has 3 lovely bedrooms on the ground floor, two with private courtyard gardens. We stayed here March 4-March 7 2011.
On the first night we had dinner in the restaurant which is a small cosy area with funky artwork on the walls.
To start we had a Tempura of vegetables which were deliciously crunchy and in the lightest batter I have ever tasted. Our other starter was a seafood risotto . The rice was perfectly cooked with generous scatterings of venetian seafood.
We had a superb bottle of red wine to accompany our meal which was recommended as the perfect compliment to fish and meat.(Campogadis by Ruffo Vini)
As a main course I had raw beef with herbs and my partner had a selection of fried fish with vegetables.
Both were superb and the presentation first class.

We had no room for dessert on this occasion and the meal was truly memorable.

Courgettes with stracciatella

Mixed fish grill

Francesco Pugliese  is to be congratulated on creating such as superb venue for eating drinking and sleeping, and his staff for providing such a warm welcome and attentive service !


With a view. Linea d'Ombra.

Linea d'Ombra  views

 This is a restaurant full of traditional Venetian dishes with a modern twist, the terrace over the Giudecca Canal are breathless. The seafood and fish are very fresh; the staff is very professional, the head waitress knows very well his job even had been working in places such as Harry´s Bar or Sheishiki London. Also they have a very respectable wine list that includes Veneto wines special for the risotto or as well the good range or pasta selection available in the menu. Just first to order watch out the prices, some antipasti and starter are around €35 a bit overprice if you can´t get a table in the terrace!

Osteria Ai Storti,

Picture by PatrickOhnewein's

 Has become a classic in my trips to Venice, very close to the Rialto market this very little (I mean it) osteria wine bar serve the most fresh fry vegetables like the famous venetian courgettes, cod, and octopus, but you can ask as well for gnochetti or spaghetti vongole and get very nice local wine at very good price is no surprise that the osteria is full of local workers around the rialto area. Ah and don’t get up without trying the huge portion of tiramisu!


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Dorsoduro, quietness in Carnival.

Kitchen Voyage Trips

Dorsoduro, Venice

Soon will be back with all the news from our trip from Venice and our experiences in Harry´s Bar and Avogaria Restaurant.

Mix grill fish from Avogaria Restaurant

And as well with a mini guide for the best of madrid including great restaurants and tapas bars.

See you soon ◦

Kitchen Voyage Trips

Chicory the perfect companion

Chicory or Endive are originally from  Europe and now are  in season, just when we start to thinking in the summer ahead chicory is in the right moment for start to make the changes that we need in our diet,  from stew to salads. I think one of the reason why chicory still popular in the supermarket chain is because the compressed shape of his leaves and are available in two colors, the dream of any supermarket manager. So I decided bring to you a bunch of salad recipes that include Jaime Oliver and Gordon Ramsay; a more French style salad because the endive are very close related with the French cuisine and to end another salad with cheeses that usually my aunt make in the winter family reunions like a canapé also present in her nutritional book.  In fact the little bitterness of those leaves go very well with rich cheeses like blue ones.  Chicory as well has been used like a substitute of the coffee, so why not try start the day with this very awakening juice.

Chicory salad with Mimolette cheese.

Serves 6. Timing  15 min. Kcal 170

Mimolette cheese by pinprick's

Salad

Vinaigrette

1 lettuce (lamb or frisée)                              1 tbsp cider vinegar

3 read chicory heads (leaves separate)         1 tsp Dijon mustard

100g mimolette cheese (in stripes)               1 tsp caster sugar

50g walnuts (finely crushed)                        Salt and pepper

                                                                  3 tbsp walnut oil

                                                                  4 tbsp Groundnut oil

1.       Place the leaves of chicory and lettuce in a bowl and add the mimolette and the crushed walnut.

2.       In a little bowl mix the vinegar, mustard and sugar and pinch of salt and pepper, then add the oils and whisk  very well. Taste your seasoning.

3.       Pour the vinaigrette over the salad bowl and serve!

Roast Quail with Endives by Gordon Ramsay.

Serves4. Timing 35 min.  Really nice salad but watch out 530kcl!

Salad

Vinaigrette

2 oven ready quails.                                         2 tbsp white wine vinegar

6 thyme sprigs                                                  ½ tsp Dijon mustard

20g hot melted butter                                       5 tbsp Walnut oil

2 chicory (white and red leaves separates)        2 tbsp olive oil

14 small basil leaves

50g walnuts.

Oven 200ºC

1. We need start cooking the quails, first filling the quails cavities with the thyme.
2. In a hot frying pan with a 2 tbsp olive oil brown the quail breast side down for 3 minutes pressing down onto the pan to get the best color possible. Now turn over and cook for another 2 minutes and basting a few of the hot butter over the bird.
3. Transfer the pan to the oven and roast for 5 to 8 minutes. Remove and let to cool.
4. Put the chicory (big leaves cut into quarters) walnut and basil in a big bowl.
5. For the dressing mix all the ingredients in a little bowl and whisk together very well, add some salt and pepper for seasoning. Pour over the bowl with the chicory.
6. Remove the breast from the birds and then slices them.
7. Serve the salad in the plates with the quail slices on top. 

 Quick Chicory salad with a really tasty dressing by Jaime Oliver.

Serves 4. Timing 20min. 

Salad

Vinaigrette

4 chicory (white and red leaves separates)   8 big basil leaves  

8 little basil leaves                                        1 garlic clove (peeled)

2 tbsp capers (drained)                                3 tbsp olive oil

                                                           ½ tin of anchovies in olive oil

                                                                   1 tsp Dijon mustard

                                                                   2 tbsp natural yoghurt

                                                                   3 tbsp red wine vinegar

                                                                        

1. Arrange the chicory and basil leaves in a big salad bowl or already in a big salad dish.
2. In a liquidizer mix all the vinaigrette ingredients and whiz them. Take a taste, season with a few salt and pepper and add a splash of water, whiz again.
3. Put a tbsp. of olive oil in a hot pan, add the capers for 2 min.
4. Sprinkle the capers over the chicory leaves and drizzle with your salad dressing. Ready to enjoy.  

Cheese chicory canapés.

Endives by coses de pac's

50g blue cheese. 200g cream cheese. 100g brie cheese.
1 tbsp of diced salad onion (very finely)
10 green olives5 black olives (diced very finely)
4 white chicory (leaves separated)
50g walnut.
1 tbsp vinegar

1.    In a big bowl with half of cold water add the vinegar and chicory leaves. Left them rest for 5 minutes. 
2.    Rinse the leaves in rinse water and drain in a colander.
3.    In another bowl mix all the cheeses very well, using a whisker or a fork
4.    Add the diced black olives and salad onion to the cheese mix and season with pepper
5.    In a serving dish arrange the chicory leaves and fill with the cheese mix and top ones with the green olives and another with a piece of walnuts.
6.    Before serving refridgerate them for at least half an hour.

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Chicory the perfect companion

CHICKEN WITH ORANGES OR LEMONS IS THE QUESTION

Photo by silviaN's

Lemons and oranges have very similar history, their origin is not exact but most probably the y came from china or South East Asia, both even they are an ancient fruits they are really hybrids, lemon  is a genetic combination of sour orange and citron and the oranges is another hybrid from grapefruit and mandarin. Early the lemon was attributed with curative properties and the Chinese consider that have an orange trees bring you luck. Step by step these two citrus starts to be more popular in Europe, first introduced for the roman troops, then for Arabs in the Mediterranean (Seville orange) and finely in the middle ages for sailors to Genova and Portuguese to iberic peninsula. And then lemon and oranges went to conquest the Americas where actually are concentrated the bigger production countries.

Well now will have the opportunity to rejoin the 2 citrus with another famous South East Asia source of food. Lemon Chicken or Chicken with oranges is the question. (Click in the links for see the recipes)

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CHICKEN WITH ORANGES OR LEMONS IS THE QUESTION

ALIVE, WATCHING AND COOKING.

Lately the Good Food Channel (SkyHD Ch 249) has been showing the Australian series Alive and Cooking with the Bristol Chef James Reeson best known for The Occasional Cook and James can Cook. The show is quite interesting doesn’t bring anything new to the cooking program but the energetic style of James with a few interesting comments, nice tips and the opportunity to approach the explosion of fusion of the Australian cuisine encouraged me to try his recipes. For example the Hot Cake and Fruit Breakfast, is  great way to start the day o surprise your couple. More... ◦

ALIVE, WATCHING AND COOKING.

THE BATTLE OF THE PRAWNS

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 A large bunch of terms exist to describe all the different types of these crustaceans  (shrimp, langoustine, gambas, kings, tiger, etc.) most of the names also are linked with the bay from the fisherman catch. One things is sure is without matter if they are from, moroccan waters, Dublin way of the catalonia gulf they are very tasty but unfortunately  the food industries transform them in a high content source of calories and fat.  I did my research in Waitrose and I found

Product Name                  kcal       fat
Prawn Cocktail                 198        15g
King prawn chilli mayo    412        40g
Prawns in brine                 51          0,7

Another popular option is a prawn mayo sandwich, I checked in M&S and I found 290 kcal with 10.4g in a 164g packet. Ten grams of fat is about of a 15% of your daily fat recommendation.

So for this reason I will show 2 simple recipes when you can taste all the flavor of the prawns without overpowering additive or dip and where you only will intake around 130 kcal and only 2g of fat by 100g and another more asian prawn recipe created for Bill Granger in his special for Waitrose Kitchen magazine.

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THE BATTLE OF THE PRAWNS

Little Susan Cookies. Carrot Cookies

Little Susan Cookies 

Probably no body outside my family know these carrots cookies with this name. They were very popular after playing with my cousin Steve in our muddy backyard in our winter holidays. The carrots are in season in winter and I remember very well when my mother baked them. Even I remember one rainy afternoon when my older sister tries to emulate my mother and do for us, but the cookies were hard like stones. Lucky enough my sister becomes a strong independent woman without kids to bake cookies, and lucky to us my mother arrived earlier with enough time to make a new dough.  So when a couple days ago was reading the cook book of my aunt was a great surprise to find the Little Susan Cookies, unfortunately was a miss tipping in the ingredients list that I am not notice and my first dough was too sweet and the cookies with similar hard texture than almost 20 years ago. So I´ll call my mother to rescue the Little Susan cookies again and she give me a more accurate recipe that I will show in gram instead of cups because like a beginner I fine hard to measure by cups.  Going to the recipie

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Little Susan Cookies. Carrot Cookies